Andrew Groves: Menswear, Archives, Systems

What the System Wanted All Along

Digital ID and the End of Ambiguity

Apr 9 • Andrew Groves

6

3

Pep Guardiola’s Winning System

By the time people started talking about Pep Guardiola’s trousers, the easy story had already been written.

Apr 2 • Andrew Groves

14

4

7

March 2026

A Change to the Newsletter Archive

From this week, I’m making a small change to how the newsletter works.

Mar 31 • Andrew Groves

3

Exactitudes: Being Read

Look at these men. Who are they?

Mar 26 • Andrew Groves

15

5

8

Pet Shop Boys: Holding the Body at a Distance

Most retrospectives are really stories about change: how an image evolved, how a look shifted, how a public self was remade.

Mar 19 • Andrew Groves

16

6

9

The White Collar in the Dock

Dress, class and the problem of respectable crime

Mar 12 • Andrew Groves

6

2

Who Can Afford to Fail?

Vivienne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren and the Class Politics of Art School

Mar 5 • Andrew Groves

14

6

9

February 2026

Utopia Under Control

Masculinity, Dress Codes and the Architecture of Access

Feb 26 • Andrew Groves

13

1

7

The Brick That Exposed the System

Released as part of Supreme’s A/W2016 season, this red clay brick sold out immediately and entered resale circulation within hours.

Feb 19 • Andrew Groves

11

2

7

Allyness: A System of Readiness

Analysis of “allyness” in British military culture as a visual system of competence, peer judgement, kit modification, and readiness under pressure.

Feb 12 • Andrew Groves

12

1

7

When the Performance Ends: Credibility Without Exposure

Last week’s essay traced how early Burberry treated weather as a problem of governance rather than image.

Feb 5 • Andrew Groves

8

6

January 2026

Burberry’s Weather Proof: Turning Exposure into Reliability

By the late nineteenth century, weather in Britain was no longer encountered only as a local condition or seasonal inevitability.

Jan 29 • Andrew Groves

9

2

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